Frequently Asked Questions
Kitchens
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Budget-friendly: (around £5,000 - £15,000) This range offers pre-made or modular kitchens with laminate worktops, standard appliances, and less customization. It's suitable for refreshing a kitchen or those on a tighter budget.
Mid-range: (around £15,000 - £30,000) This offers more flexibility in design and materials. You can choose better quality units, worktops like quartz or granite, and some integrated appliances.
High-end: (around £30,000+) This caters to luxury kitchens with bespoke or custom-made units, high-end appliances, premium worktops, and intricate design features.
Additional factors affecting budget:
Size and complexity: Larger kitchens or those with islands will cost more.
Materials: Solid wood, granite worktops, and high-end appliances will increase the price.
Additional work: Removing the old kitchen, plumbing, or electrical work adds to the cost.
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Not all kitchen fitters do electrics and plumbing. Here's the breakdown:
Kitchen fitting: This typically involves installing the kitchen units, worktops, appliances, sinks, and taps. They generally don't handle electrical or plumbing work due to regulations.
Electrical work: This requires a qualified electrician registered under a competent person scheme like Part P of the Building Regulations in the UK. It's illegal for someone without the proper qualifications to do electrical work in your kitchen, especially as kitchens are classified as "special locations" due to the presence of water.
Plumbing work: Similar to electrics, qualified plumbers are required, particularly for tasks involving gas connections or alterations to the water supply. Most plumbers will be registered with a scheme like Gas Safe (for gas work).
At Bestford Kitchen & Joinery, I'll handle the kitchen fitting while leveraging my trusted network of electricians and plumbers to manage the entire project. I will oversee every step to ensure clear communication and accountability as your consistent point of contact.
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Kitchen fitters typically may handle flooring installation, but it's not always guaranteed. Here's a breakdown:
Core kitchen fitting tasks: Kitchen fitters primarily focus on installing the kitchen units, worktops, appliances, sinks, and taps. Flooring installation might not be included in their core service.
Flooring as an add-on service: Some kitchen fitters might offer flooring installation as an additional service for a separate fee. This depends on their expertise and willingness to take on the extra work.
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Kitchen fitters typically follow a specific sequence to ensure a smooth and efficient installation process. Here's a breakdown of what they typically do first:
Pre-installation Tasks:
Project Planning and Review: The fitter will discuss your plans and ensure they understand the layout, design, and chosen materials for your kitchen.
Site Check and Measurements: They'll meticulously measure the kitchen space to confirm everything fits as planned. This might involve double-checking existing plumbing and electrical locations.
Protection of the Workspace: Dust sheets and coverings are used to protect your floors, walls, and existing features from dust and debris during demolition and installation.
Demolition and Removal (if applicable):
Removing Old Kitchen: This might involve dismantling old cabinets, worktops, appliances, and sinks. Some fitters might not include this in their base service, so check beforehand.
Disposing of Waste: The fitter will responsibly remove and dispose of the old kitchen units and debris, following regulations for waste disposal.
Preparation for New Installations:
Plumbing and Electrical Work (by qualified professionals): If your project involves changes to plumbing or electrical layouts, qualified plumbers and electricians will be brought in to complete this crucial step before the kitchen fitters begin their work.
Subfloor Preparation (if needed): Uneven floors might require levelling before installing new flooring (if flooring installation is part of the project).
Once these initial stages are complete, the kitchen fitter can move on to the actual installation process, typically starting with:Base Unit Installation: This is the foundation of your kitchen. The fitter will meticulously secure the base units to the wall, ensuring they are level and plumb.
The order of events may vary slightly depending on the specific project and the fitter's approach. Still, this gives you a general idea of what to expect when a kitchen fitter starts working on your kitchen.
Bathrooms
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The cost of a bathroom renovation in the UK can vary widely depending on several factors, but here's a ballpark range to give you an idea:
Budget-friendly (around £1,500 - £5,500): This might involve refreshing an existing bathroom with a new shower or bath, vanity unit, and budget-friendly tiles. You might also be able to reuse some existing fixtures or do some of the work yourself to keep costs down.
Mid-range (around £5,500 - £14,000): This offers more flexibility for design and materials. You could opt for higher quality units, showers, baths, toilets, and tiling.
High-end (around £14,000+): This caters to luxury bathroom renovations with bespoke features, high-end fixtures, statement tiles, underfloor heating, and possibly smart technology integration.
Here are some additional factors that can affect the overall cost of your bathroom renovation:
Size of the bathroom: Larger bathrooms naturally cost more to renovate than smaller cloakrooms.
Complexity of the project: A straightforward bathroom refresh will be cheaper than a complete overhaul involving moving plumbing or electrics.
Quality of materials: Luxury tiles, stone countertops, and high-end fixtures will significantly increase the cost compared to budget-friendly options.
Labour costs: Prices can vary depending on the location, experience of the bathroom fitter, and the scale of the project.
Removing the old bathroom: If your project involves removing the old bathroom suite and disposing of the waste, factor in the additional cost.
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Bathroom fittings required in a bathroom typically include:
Sink: With taps (faucets) for hot and cold water.
Toilet: Including the cistern (tank) and flush mechanism.
Shower: With a showerhead, controls, and enclosure or curtain.
Bathtub: If applicable, with taps and possibly a showerhead.
Vanity unit: With or without storage space underneath the sink.
Mirror: Often above the sink, sometimes with built-in lighting.
Lighting: Ceiling lights, wall lights, or mirror lights.
Towel rails: Heated or non-heated.
Storage units: Cabinets, shelves, or drawers for toiletries and other bathroom essentials.
Exhaust fan: For ventilation to remove moisture and odours.
Toilet roll holder: For toilet paper.
Soap dish or dispenser: For hand soap.
Shower caddy or shelves: For shampoo, soap, and other shower essentials.
Towel hooks or rings: For hanging towels.
Waste bin: For bathroom trash.
Shaving socket: If required, for electric shavers or toothbrushes.
Grab bars: For safety, especially in showers or near the toilet, if needed.
Water heater: If not already integrated into the house’s main water heating system.
Additional fittings can vary based on the size of the bathroom, personal preferences, and specific needs.
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A bathroom installation follows a specific order to ensure a smooth and efficient process. Here's a breakdown of the typical stages:
Demolition and Prep Work: This is the messy part!
Removal of existing fixtures, tiles, and wall coverings.
Disconnecting old plumbing and turning off the water supply.
May involve minor structural changes or adjustments (consult your fitter for specifics).
First Fix Plumbing and Electrics: This lays the groundwork for the new features.
Installing new pipes and electrical wiring for the shower, sink, toilet, etc.
These are positioned strategically behind walls and floors for later concealment.
Walls and Floors: Now it's time to prep the canvas.
Depending on the project, this might involve plastering or installing backer boards for tiles.
Waterproofing the floor is crucial to prevent leaks.
This is usually followed by tiling the walls and floor (although some might leave flooring for later).
Second Fix Plumbing and Electrics: Here comes the fun part - installing the new shiny things!
This involves connecting the new fixtures like the bathtub, toilet, sink, shower unit, etc., to the pre-installed plumbing.
Electrical fittings like lights, extractor fan, and heated towel rail are also installed.
Finishing Touches: Almost there!
This includes installing accessories like towel holders, toilet roll holders, and mirrors.
Sealing any gaps and ensuring a clean, professional finish.
Final Inspection and Cleanup:
The fitter will check everything for leaks, functionality, and proper installation.
Once everything is perfect, they'll clean up the workspace and remove any debris.
Important Note: This is a general order, and slight variations might occur depending on the specific project and your contractor's preferences. If you're unsure about any step, always discuss it with your bathroom fitter beforehand.
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Average: It typically takes around 5 to 10 days for a standard bathroom installation.
Size: Smaller bathrooms can be completed in as little as 2 days, while large and luxurious ones might take up to 2 weeks.
Complexity: A simple refresh with minimal plumbing changes might be quicker than a complete overhaul that involves moving fixtures or extensive tiling.
Unforeseen Issues: Unexpected problems like hidden water damage or delays in material delivery can extend the timeline.
Here's a breakdown based on bathroom size:
Small Bathroom (3-5 days): This is ideal for a quick refresh with a new vanity, toilet, and flooring.
Medium Bathroom (5-7 days): Offers more space for customisation but shouldn't involve major changes.
Large Bathroom (7-10+ days): Allows for a luxurious remodel with features like a walk-in shower or a soaking tub, but will take longer.
Remember: These are just estimates. Always discuss the project details with a qualified bathroom fitter to get a more accurate timeframe for your specific situation.
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Joinery
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Joiners are skilled craftspeople who specialise in working with wood to create and install various structures and fittings, primarily for buildings. Here's a breakdown of their typical tasks:
Creating structural components: This includes staircases, window frames, doors, partitions, and other elements that form the building's framework.
Crafting furniture: Joiners often build bespoke furniture, especially larger and more permanent pieces like cabinets and bookcases.
Installation: They don't just create these elements; they also install them on-site, ensuring everything fits together precisely and functions properly.
Joiners typically combine traditional woodworking techniques with modern tools and technologies. They might use:
Hand tools: Chisels, saws, planes, and other tools for shaping and joining wood.
Power tools: Drills, sanders, routers, and other equipment to speed up the process.
Here are some additional points to consider:
Joiners vs Carpenters: There can be some overlap between joinery and carpentry, but joiners typically focus on creating and fitting interior structures, while carpenters might work on a broader range of projects, including building frameworks and exterior structures.
Bench joiners vs Site joiners: Some joiners work primarily in workshops creating components, while others focus on installing them on construction sites.
Overall, joiners play a crucial role in the construction and furnishing process, ensuring beautiful and functional wooden elements that contribute to the overall look and feel of a building.
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The cost of hanging an interior door can vary depending on several factors, but here's a ballpark figure:
£40 to £350 per door.
Here's a breakdown of the factors affecting the price:
Labour costs: This depends on the experience level of the professional you hire. Beginners might charge around £30/hour, while experienced carpenters can cost £50/hour or more.
Door complexity: Simple interior doors are quicker to install, so they'll be cheaper than heavier doors, French doors, or sliding doors.
Job complexity: Hanging a new door on an existing frame is simpler (and cheaper) than replacing the entire door lining (frame).
Materials: If new hardware (hinges, handles) or additional materials are needed, that will add to the cost.
Location: Rates might be slightly higher in areas with a higher cost of living.
Here's a rough cost estimate based on complexity:
Simple interior door hanging: £60-£90 (assuming a beginner at £30/hour for 2-3 hours) or £100-£150 (experienced carpenter at £50/hour).
Hanging a door with frame replacement: This can cost anywhere between £100-£350 depending on the factors mentioned above.
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Whether you need planning permission to convert your garage in the UK depends on several factors:
Type of Garage:
Integral Garage (attached to your house): In most cases, converting an integral garage won't require planning permission, provided the work is internal and doesn't alter the building's exterior. It would likely fall under permitted development rights.
Detached Garage: This is more likely to require planning permission, especially if it's a significant structure or you plan to make major external changes.
Location:
Designated Areas: If you live in a conservation area, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, National Park, or a house with listed building status, you'll almost certainly need planning permission for any garage conversion.
Changes Made:
Internal only: Permitted development usually allows for internal alterations without needing planning permission.
External Changes: If your conversion involves significant external changes like extensions, raised roofs, or new windows, you'll likely need planning permission.
Here are some resources to help you determine if you need planning permission:
Planning Portal - Garage conversion: This government website provides a helpful overview of planning requirements for garage conversions.
Check your local council's website: They will have specific information on planning regulations in your area, including any exemptions or requirements.
General advice:
Regardless of what you think, it's always best to check with your local council's planning department before starting any work. They can definitively advise you on whether planning permission is needed for your specific project.
You can often seek pre-application advice from your council's planning department. This can be helpful to understand their specific requirements and avoid potential issues before submitting a formal planning application.
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The cost of a garage conversion in the UK depends on several factors, but here's some information to help you estimate:
Budget:
Average Costs: In the UK, a garage conversion typically costs between £18,000 and £28,300 (including VAT). This is a broad range, so consider these additional factors for a more accurate estimate:
Size of the garage: A larger garage conversion will naturally cost more than a smaller one.
Complexity of the conversion: A simple conversion with minimal plumbing changes will be cheaper than a complete overhaul with extensive modifications.
Quality of materials: High-end finishes and features will increase the cost compared to basic materials.
Labour costs: Rates can vary depending on your location and the experience level of the contractors you hire.
Need for planning permission: If required, obtaining planning permission can add to the overall cost.
Here's a rough estimate based on size:
Small garage (one car): £18,000 - £22,000
Double garage: £22,000 - £28,300+ (depending on complexity)
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Media walls come in a variety of styles to suit your taste and space. Here are some popular options:
Floating Shelves: These sleek and modern shelves provide a minimalist look and are ideal for smaller spaces. They can be made from various materials like wood, metal, or glass.
Cabinet Media Walls: These offer a more substantial look with closed storage for hiding electronics, movies, games, or other items. They can be built-in or freestanding units.
Full-Wall Media Walls: These expansive units cover the entire wall, providing maximum storage and creating a dramatic focal point. They work well in large living rooms.
Fireplace Media Walls: These combine a fireplace (usually electric) with shelving or cabinets for a cosy and functional entertainment centre.
Corner Media Walls: Perfect for utilising unused corners in your living space. They come in various configurations with shelves or cabinets.
Open Shelving Media Walls: Similar to floating shelves but with more extensive shelving for displaying books, artwork, or decorative items alongside your TV.
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Here are some key factors to consider when designing a media wall that complements your existing living room:
Style: Match the overall style of your living space. Modern media walls with clean lines work well with contemporary decor, while rustic wood shelves might complement a traditional setting.
Color scheme: Consider the existing color palette of your living room. Choose media wall materials and finishes that harmonize with your furniture and wall colors.
Functionality: Think about how you'll use the media wall. Do you need open shelves for displaying objects, closed cabinets for storage, or a combination of both?
TV size and weight: Ensure the media wall can support the weight and size of your TV. Consider future upgrades when choosing materials and designing the structure.
Scale and proportions: The media wall size should be proportional to your living room. A massive wall unit might overwhelm a small space, while a tiny shelf might get lost in a large room.
Focal point: The media wall should be a focal point but not dominate the entire room. Maintain a balance with other furniture and decor elements.
For inspiration, you can browse online resources for media wall design ideas or consult with an interior designer for personalized recommendations.